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1995 Toyota 4Runner:
Short Diagnostic Connector Pins to Set Base Timing

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Alex Steele
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Question:

 

I'm trying to do a tune-up on my 1995 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.0L V6. Which pins on the diagnostic connector do you short to set base timing?

 

Answer:

 

Let's go through the procedure so everyone knows what we're talking about. "Base timing" is when the ECM's (Engine Control Module) electronic spark timing control is disabled, so that the ignition timing's origination point may be set by adjusting the position of the distributer housing.

 

Start with the engine at normal operating temperature, transmission in park or neutral, the A/C and coolant fan off, and idle speed between 750-850 rpm. Then we hook up the timing light to Cylinder #1 plug wire which is located at the front of the right cylinder head. Now we locate the DLC (Data Link Connector) on the right side of the engine compartment.

 

When looking straight at the 17 pin connector with the group of nine terminals at the top, terminal TE1 is dead center and terminal E1 is in the lower right corner of the group of nine terminals. By connecting these circuits with a jumper wire we have placed the system in base timing mode.

 

Now point the timing light at the engine's front cover and observe the mark. It should be right at 10 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). If not, make the correction at the distributer. Once base timing is set remove the jumper from the DLC connector and again observe the timing mark. It will now be electronically controlled by the ECM and a reading of 8 degrees will confirm proper operation.

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Comments:

Techhelp2
11 Jan 2015, 09:49
RE: Raul, Sometimes it will change and sometimes it won't. When jumping the two terminals see if the timing mark moves, it could be to retarded to change. Set the timing to the correct setting then see if the RPM increases. This would be a good indication the timing was not set correctly.
Techhelp2
11 Jan 2015, 09:44
RE: Peter Tags, Yes having the valve timing off the engine will back fire and not start. Looking at the timing gears there should be markings on the gears, they should be aligned with marks on the engine. Then put the crank shaft at 0 degrees at the timing marks. Then install the belt and tighten.

IF you go to the forums I can send you pictures.
Techhelp2
11 Jan 2015, 09:39
When looking straight at the 17 pin connector with the group of nine terminals at the top, terminal TE1 is dead center and terminal E1 is in the lower right corner of the group of nine terminals. By connecting these circuits with a jumper wire we have placed the system in base timing mode.
RAUL
10 Jan 2015, 15:49
When I jump Te1 and E1 the RPM's don't change. I replaced TPS and calibrated it per spec,
peter tags
29 Jul 2014, 17:19
Here's my question. I have a 1995 4Runner V6 4x2. I had to replace a bad knock sensor. So I removed everything on top of the engine, the air intake housing, injector rail, the plenum and the timing belt cover, and pulley. When I took the pulley off the timing belt fell off. Never got a chance to mark it. After putting everything back the car doesn't start. It turns, it has gas and spark. I think by me not marking the belt the timing is off now. First time I tried to start it, it backfired and that's it. Nothing now. How do I get the timing back? How do I align the belt? Can bad timing make car not start? Thank you.
Admin
14 Mar 2014, 15:17
Sometimes the timing will remain the same with or without jumping at the DLC. It's insurance to get it right.

Did the engine run OK before you attempted setting the timing? If so, be sure the timing light is on cylinder #1, and you are looking at the correct timing mark on the crank pulley.

Sure on both? Then take a good look at the rubber between the crank pulley and the damper hub. The pulley can twist on the hub and make the timing mark useless.
Josh Hileman
06 Mar 2014, 07:00
I have a question for you. After setting base timing, I remove the jumper wire and recheck timing. Timing still at 10ยบ. Also runs horribly. Pings and spark knocks under hard acceleration, sputters and no power. Any ideas what the problem might be?

 

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