I've been running my 1999 Grand Prix SE 3.1L with the ABS light on for some months now. I scanned the code and only got the a/c compressor is an issue. I've tried replacing the fuse many times. Once I tried to run the engine with the a/c on and put a fuse in then so to determine if the clutch would engage and it sounded like it did but the fuse blew in seconds. I've researched that it is the a/c compressor clutch coil that is at issue but I don't know how to diagnose that so to prove it is that. Don't know why they ran the power through the same fuse but I don't believe it is the ABS system at all, since I did replace the ECU as a possibility. Thanks for any help.
Unplug the compressor clutch and then replace the fuse and turn on the A/C system to see if the fuse still blows. If it doesn't blow then use an OHM meter and check the resistance on the clutch coil. It should be around 4.5 to 4.8 OHMS. If it higher it will cause too much resistance and causing too much amps and will blow the fuse and too little ohm's will be closer to a short and will blow the fuse.
Be sure your code reader will read ABS codes most of them don't. If the ABS light is on the most likely malfunction would be a wheel speed sensor.
Your local professional mechanic can scan the ABS system to tell you what the malfunction is.
I am attaching a wire schematic of the A/C clutch electrical system from the Alldata automotive information website below to help you.
I disconnected the connector to the a/c and replaced the fuse then started the car turned on the a/c and the fuse did not blow. Tested the ohms and got a 1.0, dead. Is that possible or was something likely done incorrectly? If it's dead than there should not be a reason to scan the ABS and just replace the compressor right?
The 1.0 ohms is too low and is most likely the problem for the blown A/C clutch fuse.
The ohm reading could fluctuate with temperature so you might want to check it when it is hot.
You wouldn't need to replace the compressor; you would just need to replace the compressor clutch coil.
What work was done on the car that you say could be done incorrectly? This was not mentioned before.
There may be other reasons the fuse blew, keep an eye on it and keep us informed on the problem. The fuse in question is the 10 AMP A/C clutch/ABS ING, this is the ignition power supply to the ABS Traction control module and the A/C clutch. So it will affect both systems.
If the ABS light is or was on it still should be checked out by your local professional mechanic to verify there is no problem with the system.
Regarding your question, What work was done on the car that you say could be done incorrectly? This was not mentioned before. I was referring to the 1.0 ohm reading I got and if 1.0 was a possible reading.
Going further, I've got the replacement coil and I'm ready to replace it. I've looked at things and I felt threads for a nut to remove the clutch plate. There isn't much room to work. Will I need to remove the compressor to remove the clutch pulley or not and if so what would the best way of removing the pulley, would it be to remove a hose for example? Thank you again.
All instructions show the compressor removed from the system and all work being done on a work bench and a compressor holder supported by a vise.
There are two types of compressors (V5 direct mount or V5 conventional mount) and the procedure is slightly different for both. Both of the compressors are requiring a two pullers one for the compressor clutch and the other is for the pulley which is quite large.
When the job then job is done you would then need to evacuate and recharge the system. The time for the clutch replacement is about 2.0 hours. Then evacuate and recharge the system about another 1.5 hours.
It is not an easy job for the average person. A professional mechanic may know some short cuts because he has done many clutch coils before.
If you can remove the compressor and bring it to a reputable shop, for a small labor fee they could install the coil for you and you would just have to remove the compressor and replace it. Then evacuate and recharge the system if you have the equipment.
What I am saying is that it is not an easy job for the average guy and you may want to consider having a professional do the job knowing that it is done correctly and would probably have a small warranty along with it.
It was a difficult job but not for the reasons expected. The threads on the clutch plate were rusted and pitted and the extractor tool couldn't be used so I opted out and replaced the compressor. I've recharged the system and have the a/c back. The ABS light is still on and now the "trac" light is on as well. The ABS light is still up in the air. Thanks for the direction you have been giving me here.
To properly diagnosis the ABS and TRAC control you need a scan tool not a code reader. You can go to your local professional mechanic and for a diagnostic fee he will be able to tell you the trouble codes related to the both systems.
Some problems may be related to the EBTCM (Electronic brake traction control module) and can only be diagnosed with a scan tool.
Let me know how you make out.
The EBTCM was replaced for that suspicion so obviously the issue won't be that. The last time this happened it was a connection at the wheel hub that caused it. I'll check the connections again and if that's not it I'll have the system scanned. Thanks again.
I just finished the ABS issue. Now that the weather is better I went under the car more closely and saw the suspected break in the wire at the connector point. Did a rewire job and it's fixed. Hope it stays... Thanks again for your helps throughout, I was lost at the start as I said before.