I had to replace my ignition in my car and when I did we put the white cylinder that starts the car where the radio would normally go because some one destroyed the last one I put in. Well there was a little wire exposed the apparently touched a piece of metal and my car stopped running instantly. The little clock went dead and some of my warning lights are off. The check engine light was always on and since I had replaced the ignition the airbag light had always been on. My starter is turning over, but there is no fuel getting to the engine, also the fuel pump is not humming when you turn it into the on position. I am pretty sure the pump is not broke but there is no power getting to it. We checked all the fuses under the driver side panel and under the hood the little fuse and the relay. Everything looks good. The guy at the parts store said there were more fuses under the fuse box that's under the hood too, is that right? I am stumped right now. Please help!
I need to know the year of vehicle so I can look at the correct wire schematics?
2000 KIA Spectra GSX manual trans.
This is a schematic for the fuel pump circuit and related fuses.
There are only two fuse panels, the one inside the car and the one under the hood. Check the fuel injection fuses (10 AMP) and fuel pump fuse (10AMP).
This is the diagram for the fuses and relays in the under hood panel.
At the computer connector plug for a scan tool (ALDL) you can test the fuel pump with a jumper wire.
If the fuel pump works by jumping it out then you have to check the power feeds for the fuel pump like fuses, relay and ignition switch wiring. You shouldn't have a wire loose like you have that can ground out and blow fuses. It has to go somewhere.
It would help if you could get your hands on a scanner or code reader so you can find out what codes are stored in the computer.
Try these suggestions and get back to me when you can.
Am I supposed to put a jump from that place to the battery or to the fuel pump? Sorry not to good with electrical on a car. Don't want to mess it up more.
On the diagram I sent you has battery + is in it. You can use a cotter pin or piece of wire. This will bypass the relay to see if the fuel pump is operational. If you hear the hum of the pump then the pump is good and you need to find out why you don't have current to the relay.
I would check the fuses again. If the wire touched (shorted) to metal there is a good chance the fuse is blown.
Check the fuses with the key in the on position!
If you don't have current then it would most likely be a fuse.
If you are not good at electrical work it would be a safer to bring it to a qualified mechanic.
If you are not sure of what you are doing you can cause damage that can be quite expensive.
Let me know how you make out.
I do not know where the ALDL (diagnostic connector) is located in the car. Are you talking about the diagnostic plug? Is it under the hood or in the car? None of the plugs look like you pic. The diagnostic one looks like it but there is no piece like the pic to jump it. Sorry really trying here. No money to take it to a shop. Girls got to learn sometime.
Here is a picture of the under hood components also showing the diagnostic connector.
I will try to help you the best I can. Try to check all of the fuses again, if you go to an auto parts store they sell fuse testers that can help you and they are kind of cheap.
Check fuses 30 AMP BTN and 10 AMP ECU fuse. Also check fuel pump #27 10 AMP, #1 ING1 (ignition fuse), #4 ING2 30 AMP, #20 ING2 25 AMP fuse, #28 INJ (fuel injector) and #30 BTN fuse.
Try these suggestions and let me know how you make out.
Hey all. I was wondering how this issue shook out. I'm having very similar problems with my 03 spectra ls. I just replaced the fuel pump only to find out 1 pin in 1 plug has power to it. The entire other plug that connects to the top of the fuel pump isn't showing any current at all. When the car died I was doing 50 mph and the front drivers side (not both) windshield wiper started going crazy for roughly 20 seconds then the car just went quiet and she coasted to a stop. I also noticed a few days prior the check engine light and airbag dash lights came on. The only code it spit out was a failing knock sensor. My alternator was cold to the touch when it first happened (I had been driving around for a couple hours by that point) so the 1st thing I replaced was yep you guessed it, the alternator. I don't mean to kick a dead horse here but I don't really know any mechanics that I would trust to give an honest answer and I'm stumped. Thanks for reading.
Is the car running? You didn't tell me which one you replaced first the alternator or the fuel pump.
I'm confused, did you replace the fuel pump because the car died or you replaced the alternator because it wasn't charging and the car died?
Did you check the charging voltage before you changed the alternator? A cold alternator is not a valid test. There are other factors that can make a alternator not charge a battery.
The wipers can not work independently from each other, they are connected by a link assembly. If one wiper was working something must be broken.
The one wire that should have voltage on the fuel pump plug is the pink/black wire. The black wires are ground wires the others are for the fuel gauge. Also make sure all the grounds are tight, no corrosion and clean making good connections.
Send me more detailed information. In the mean time I am sending you some schematics on the fuel pump circuit. It details fuses, relays and detailed information on the wiring.
Get back to me when you can with the detailed information. The more information you give me the better I can help you.
This is the Data Link Connector. You can test the fuel pump with a test wire at this point.
This is the lay out for the fuel pump relay.