1999 Ford Contour 2.0, 283,000 miles. Started the other day and ran rough for a period of time then smoothed out and ran fine all day. Next day, the same thing only much worse, raised rpm for a period of time. It smoothed out and ran fine rest of day. 3rd day went to start and no luck. Turns over and acts like it wants to start but will not. Checked for codes and got nothing. Checked the timing belt (4th one) and it looks in good shape. Unplugged the VCT actuator and got no change. Pulled plug, grounded and spark is present. Plugs were getting fuel (wet) and smell of gas from exhaust. I can hear fuel pump prime when the key is turned on. Any ideas?
Well I feel pretty silly. Plugs did not look that good so went ahead and changed them and also the wires and the temperature sensor (was not working). Now all is well car runs great. I am leaving this post here in case it may help someone else.
Last edited by fisher12 (5/9/2013 10:01 PM)
Thank you for the post. Some times you need to look at the data on the scanner when there are not any codes present.
The way you described the problem I was going in the direction of the coolant sensor. If it still works it won't set a code but the information it is sending to the PCM it was telling the PCM that the engine was colder than it actually was and dumping the fuel in according to the information the coolant sensor was sending; which was very cold when it was warmer outside causing too much gas on a warm day and flooding the engine where it wouldn't start.
Hello I'm new and not sure how to make a new post so I'm going to try here.
I have a 1995 Ford Contour with a V6. It will crank over real well but won't start. I've changed the coil pack, crank and cam censors, wiring, fuel injectors with fuel rail, plugs. No fuses or relay are bad but it still won't start. The fuel pump doesn't come on when the key is turned on.
I am getting fire to the coil pack.....the reason I changed all the stuff I have a 2nd contour just a bad body but was running, I do know the 1995's have faulty wiring is there something I'm missing?
Check the fuel pump circuit, If you don't have power to the fuel pump then you don't have fuel pressure. If you have power to the pump at the two second prime then you may have a bad pump.
When you turn the key on (No start) you should hear the fuel pump turn on for two seconds then turn off, this is the fuel pump prime.
Could be bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay and or fuse. Check the fuel cut out switch (Inertia cut out switch) it may have to be reset. The inertia fuel shutoff switch is located behind the left cowl side (kick) panel. Access to the switch is through an opening in the trim panel.
Check it out get back to me with your results we can diagnosis the problem further if needed.
Fuse and relay are good. funny thing is I can push down on the relay and the pump will come on but not when the key is turned on(not start). there is one wire that does have power at the pump but no others( that's with the key left on). I'm at my wits end.
Oh and the cut off switch is good.
If you push on the relay and the pump runs can the car start when you do this? Have someone try to start the engine while you push on the relay. Does the engine start?
This will confirm that the pump is good and the engine will run. We can diagnosis the problem further if needed.
The schematic I am sending shows fuses for the power relay and the fuel pump relay form the PCM. Did you check them?
We tried holding relay and it still won't start but now we know there isnt fire through the plug wires but I know the wires and coil pack are good
Check your wiring to your ignition parts. If you said the parts were working in the other vehicle then you could have an open wire or loose connection at the plug of the component.
Does your car have a Tachometer? If so watch the tachometer while you are cranking the engine. If the tachometer is moving then you have a good signal from the crank sensor and you would need to look at the Ignition module and even the PCM for proper operation.
It is hard to diagnosis from my end because I am not there to see what is going on so I am relying on the information you are giving me. I'll do my best to help but in the meantime go back to basics, check all of your ignition system connections and components and check to see if you have fuel pressure.
Also if you have a scan tool check to see if you have any trouble codes, this can help with the diagnosis.
it does have a tach. and when cranking the needle doesnt move. Ignition module came off the car that was running. crank sensor did also, even the wiring for the crank sensor, cam sensor and injectors come off the running car.
Im begining to think its ready for the scap yard.