HI all, I'm new here and trying to fix my daughters car. Her godfather recently tuned it up (plugs only) oil change and minor brake repair.
Anyways about 4 days after this she was driving home and call just died on her. Towed it home and I've gone through several things, fuel pump is working, fuel in rail at engine (I have no tool to check actual pressure) I pressed in the valve and got gas squirting out each time I turned on the key and pump can be heard. I also check for spark at plugs and only got #1 to fire good, 2-4 I got no spark. I broke the tab on the crank shaft position sensor (or cam position sensor, auto store said thats what it is when I brought in the old one) so that is new and still crank no spark. Checked timing belt and its good too, but I know I will be replacing that sometime soon, I'll be asking about that later.
Where would I go from here? I'm thinking coil???
Its a 96' 2.0 four cylinder GL (if that matters) with 133k miles.
Check all of the fuses and check the Ignition relay under the dash in the fuse panel.
If they all check out then check the crank sensor that is at the crankshaft pulley area.
Most common problems with a no spark condition are a faulty crank sensor.
If you need more help we are here to help. Just write back and I'll help you the best I can.
The more precise information you can give me the better I can help you.
All fuses and relays check out good. Next step is to replace the wires and see what that does then the coil. Don't know where to go from there. I did the crank sensor (auto store told me it was the camshaft position sensor) and still no spark only to # 1 plug.
Well I'll never use that other forum, because I was directed to the "Cam Position Sensor" not the Crankshaft Position sensor. I will tackle this on Sunday and report back. Sheesh $30 down the drain and a couple of hours lost, or well lesson learned.
Thanks for the diagrams, helps a lot.
Okay as of today still not start, I've replaced spark plug wires, crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor and it got new plugs about 2 weeks ago. I was leaning towards coil pack, but I checked the pressure at the fuel rail and I got 0 and it should have 40 psi. I'm gonna start low and change fuel filter and see if that does it and gonna go back and check for spark once I get the spark test tool, local shop did have one in stock.
Any other ideas of where to go and what to check? I also plan on going to a wrecking yard and pull the coil pack and ignition control module and see if that does it. I know I'm chancing it with a used part but they cost $50 & $105 on new parts. I don't want to throw more parts at it if it's not necessary.
You can still check to see if you have spark at all of the spark plugs while the engine is not running. Check the spark at each plug wire by using a spark tester and crank the engine, you should have spark at each plug wire. If you don't have spark continue diagnosing the ignition system.
Check to see if the fuel pump has the two second prime when you turn on the key. The pump should turn on for two seconds and turn off. Check the fuel pump to see if you have voltage at the pump plug. If you don't then check the fuel pump relay, fuse, roll over switch (inertia fuel shutoff switch). The inertia fuel shutoff switch is located behind the left cowl side (kick) panel. Access to the switch is through an opening in the trim panel.
The inertia fuel shutoff switch is used to shut off the electric fuel pump in the event of a collision.
When a sharp impact occurs, the ball breaks loose from the magnet, rolls up a ramp and strikes a target plate which opens the electrical contacts of the inertia fuel shutoff switch and shuts off the fuel pump. Once open, it must be manually reset before restarting the vehicle.
Ignition system operation:
The Electronic Ignition (EI-High Data Rate) system consists of the following components:
Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
Desired spark angle signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
The signal generated from the crankshaft position sensor provides:
Base timing, which is set at 10°BTDC and is not adjustable.
Crankshaft speed (rpm).
The PCM uses this information to determine ignition coil turn ON and turn OFF time. A separate ignition control module is no longer used. This feature is built in to the PCM.
Before you replace all of the parts, get your self a repair manual. It can give you tips on testing and save you a lot of money in the long run. When you replace parts like this you take a chance of not fixing the problem and spending unnecessary money.
The above information on the inertia switch and ignition operation is from the Alldata information website.
Keep us up to date on your progress.
Well fuel is good, I changed the filter and get 40psi at the rail, but now no spark. I got new plugs, wires, coil pack, crank position sensor, & cam position sensor. I pulled the Powertrain control module (pcm) but want to double check to see if it's not my timing belt that has slipped. It was making some noise to find out that there was a little slack and it was hitting the top cover.
Could it be possible that the belt slipped and now I get no spark to all four plugs???
If the belt broke then you won't get a signal at all from the cam shaft sensor and you won't have spark or fuel injector signal at all.
Do a simple compression test to see if the compression is within specs.
If you can't tell then take the front cover off and turn the crank shaft until the marks on the crankshaft and the cam shaft line up to there marks on the head and engine.
If the belt seems to be cracked or chaffed then replace the belt.
If you need to replace the timing belt then there is a service bulletin on this procedure.
I have listed it below.
ENGINE - 2.0L - ENGINE TIMING PROCEDURE - SERVICE TIP
When setting camshaft timing on the 2.0L Zetec engine, there is the possibility of improperly setting the timing to the wrong mark on the crankshaft damper.
When setting camshaft timing on these vehicles refer to the following Service Procedure to correctly set engine timing.
1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise so that the SECOND timing mark in rotation on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the raised mark on the oil pan as shown in Figure 1. The engine is now at Top Dead Center (TDC) No. 1 cylinder.
2. Using the Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool (T94P-6256-CH) align camshafts by installing the tool into the slots at the rear of the camshafts. Top dead center is now secured with the timing marks aligned and the camshaft alignment tool in position.
3. Follow the steps above and the procedures in Camshaft Timing Section, Page O3-O1A-17 of the 1995 Contour/Mystique Service Manual when setting engine timing.
The service bulletin is supplied by the Alldata information website.