All windows in my 97 Aurora go up and down except the front passenger window. It will go up (fortunately) but not down. I have reversed the wires for testing the motor and it goes down. So, the motor is good to operate in both modes. Neither switch, master or passenger switch will make it go down. I read 16+ volts in the blue wire when switched up, but 0 volts ON TAN WIRE when switched down. Car is unmolested and practically factory if not factory. Sun roof works fine too. Any guesses? Help!
Last edited by gtovegas (5/10/2011 12:22 AM)
Do you have power to the tan wire on the switch when you command the window to go down?
From the switch supply power to the tan wire with a jumper wire to see if the motor goes down.
If it goes down, it most likely should be the switch.
This is the operation of the window circuit from the Alldata information website.
Window Switch Operation:
When the ignition switch in RUN position, battery voltage is applied to the window switches and the window lockout switch through the PWR WDO/SUN RF circuit breaker. When the I/P switch in the window switch is operated, battery voltage is applied to the window motor. The motor is grounded through the DOWN contact in the window switch and the DOWN contact in the power window master switch assembly. The motor runs to drive the window up. When the DOWN switch in the window switch is operated, battery voltage is applied to the window motor in the opposite direction. The motor is grounded through the I/P contact in the window switch and the I/P contact in the power window master switch assembly. The motor runs to drive the window down.
Check the ground for that circuit at that window and also any other wire plug connection. Connections can become loose or corroded causing a poor connection.
Try these suggestions and get back to us when you can.
0 Volts on tan wire when commanded to go down. Could be the switches but it is not likely both master and passenger switch are bad for the same window same problem. Which wire is power wire to passenger switch when car is in run position?
And, by the way thanks for responding!
Last edited by gtovegas (5/10/2011 12:31 AM)
The B terminal (tan) on the master switch is for the power down.
The D terminal ('Blue LT) is for the power up on the master switch.
The K terminal (Brown) is the power from the fused output ING 3 fuse.
Check the S terminal (Blue DK) this is the window lock out. Make sure this is not activated.
The tan wire on the passenger switch if from the master switch, the brown wire on the passenger switch goes to the window motor.
Black is ground. Check on both switches.
Check both switch with an OHM meter for continuity for the command of the down position.
If you command the switch; to go down and power does not come our of the tan wire then the switch most likely be bad.
Let us know what happens.
Took some time to get back to it. Replaced both the master switch and passenger switch. Same results. My next step is to trace and replace brown (down) wire from motor on back to switch, unless you have some idea of what else to trace. Since there is power to switch (as window will go up) and switch has been replaced, it is my assumption wire is broken, most likely where factory does a hard bend in harness back to motor. I'll let you know, and thanks again for all your troubles on my behalf. I am just glad door panel is easy to R/R.
Your welcome, keep us updated on your progress.
I went to the picture and a part place and was able to locate a 1999 and the passenger door panel was still in tact.
I removed the entire side of the harness to the window motor. I removed the motor and all switches from passenger front and both rear as they are identical switches. I now have 4 four pass door switches and two motors.
The switch and their locations are as follows:
The Blue wire is in position 3 had 16.44 with ignition on and grounded to Black wire position 7, blue wire shows continuity from motor to switch and is position 8, brown wire shows continuity from motor to switch and is position 6
switch(s) shows continuity between 3 and 8 in up position and 3 and 6 in down position.
I plugged in the window motor not installed it worked in up and not in the down position. But will work in down position if blue and brown are swapped around.
I think this is the end of the trouble shooting unless you have any other ideas. Sometimes the gremlins win!
It's obvious that the switches and motor are good. When you power the window to go down; you said you have power to the motor.
Did you try to manually apply a fresh independent ground to the motor circuit and see if the window goes down?
If you have the power to the motor when you command the window to go down, then it wound have to be a ground problem.
The dark blue wire is connected to a splice S355, the dark blue wire is connected to the window lockout circuit.
Try to disconnect the wire form the socket to the passenger window switch and see if the window works. At this point we can try anything to see if it works.
That wire could be grounded causing the window not to go down.
There are two Dark Blue wires in positions S and F. Disconnect the S wire from the circuit and see what happens.
Try these suggestions and get back to me when you can. I'll keep looking.
Must be missing something. The up and down circuits follow the same paths. A break any where in the circuits (aside from the switches) would stop the motor from working up or down from the master switch.
The R/F switch uses a different power source from the Lockout switch, but still the same ground paths from the master.
If both switches have indeed been replaced with known good parts, I would guess there's something funky going on. Like a wrong switch, switched terminals, or a workaround splice from a previous repair.
I would begin testing at the motor and working your way upstream to the master.
With the switch in the down position you should have power (16volts?) at the BRN wire coming out of the R/F switch, and ground at the DK BLU.
Which ever is missing is your starting point.
If you've had enough of diagnosing, it might be worth the cost of an on-the-scene tech to spot the problem.