My fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, i replaced the fuel pump and filter and the fuse still blows. What else could be the issue?
Try removing the fuel pump relay and see if the fuse still blows.
If it does not blow, then it will probably be the fuel pump relay or the wire to the fuel pump from the relay is shorted to ground.
If it still blows then disconnect the Powertrain Control Module and see if it blows.
If it stops blowing the fuse, then it will probably be the PCM.
If it still blows then you need to check if the wire from the fuel pump fuse is grounded to any metal in the body, frame or engine. Wiggling the wire harnesses can sometimes temporarily stop the short.
Getting a short checker or a 10 AMP circuit breaker can be very useful in locating a short. It will keep popping till the short is found and save you from replacing the fuse all the time. It will also protect the circuit from overheating.
As a backup system to the fuel pump relay the fuel pump also can be energized by the fuel pump switch and engine oil pressure sensor. The sensor has two internal circuits. One operates the oil pressure indicator or gage on the instrument cluster, and the other is a normally open switch which closes when oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi).
If the fuel pump relay fails, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 54 will be set in the PCM, and the fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch runs the fuel pump.
Unplug the oil switch to see if the fuse stops blowing.
Also see if you can scan the PCM for any codes that may be stored in the PCM's memory, paying attention to the code 54 for the fuel pump relay. Repair any codes that come up.
This is just a start. I hope this information helps.
Let us know how you make out.
I did the steps mentioned above, it seems to be a wire that is grounded, thanks for the help
so far no luck, i followed the wires from the fuel pump to underneath my dashboard, and they all seem fine. i used a OHM meter and found out there's a "hot" wire and a grounded wire that isn't suppose to be there, followed the wires and it lead to this black box under the fuse box, what is that box?
If you have suspicions that it may be involved, or it may be and after market device like and alarm system then disconnect it and see if the fuse stops blowing.
Some alarm systems cut out the fuel pump so the car won't start.
The only way to find a short is to start disconnecting components till the fuse stops popping. Getting a 10 AMP circuit breaker to put in place of the blowing fuse will help diagnose the problem and save money on fuses.
Did you try to disconnect the plug to the fuel tank for the fuel sensor and the fuel pump? If the fuse stops popping then the problem is in the tank. Or wire related problem going to the fuel pump.
If it still pops then just start disconnecting components till the fuse stops popping. This will get you to the area of the short. If everything is unplugged and it still pops then you have a wire shorted to ground and you will need to get a wire schematic of the car.
If you are unsure of what is going on or you don't have the proper equipment, then this may be a job for your local dealer or Professional Mechanic.
finally got the car running, but the fuse wasn't a fuel pump fuse, and with my fuse box diagram being old i was unable to read it. the car runs, but idles bad and when i drop it into reverse the fuse blows and the car dies. i have no idea what this fuse is, i even bought a book for it and it doesn't say in there.
You have been trying to start the car for a while; you might want to check the spark plugs for being fouled with fuel.
If you can tell me which fuse panel the blowing fuse is in and the position it is in the panel I can look it up and go on from there.
Let me know when you can.
it was the fuel injector fuse, i followed the wire schematics and may have found the problem, now its either as easy as a wire or a bad O2 sensor
When you find the problem let us know what was wrong.