I might be difficult to understand since I'm no pro in this stuff, but here I go.
I did something ... just so stupid. I inverted the booster cable while trying to boost it. Don't ask me how I did this, but I did. I jumped the fuse #10 which is ignition and since then, nothing is working.
To me it looks like a short. I bought another 20amp fuse to replace it and tried like that. Just turned the key to accessories and I heard 1 beep (my door was still opened) and then nothing, the fuse was already dead.
Where should I start?
How long were the cables crossed?
It is hard to tell what could have happened here, so many things could have gone wrong.
If you don't know much about the car it should be checked out by a professional.
If you do know what you are doing you can get yourself a short checker at a local auto part store. It is a circuit breaker that installs in the fuse slot of the blowing fuse. When the key is turned on the circuit breaker will keep popping this will protect the fuse circuit.
Then you start disconnecting components like relays, starter wires, alternator wires, and so on. When you find the area the problem is in then the circuit breaker will stop popping. If you are lucky it will be that component you disconnected. If not then you need to follow a wire schematic to follow the wires that are in the circuit. You could have melted some wires that are now touching metal parts of the car and grounding out causing the short. You can get the wire schematics from the ALLDATAdiy.com website or a good manual if you have one.
Last edited by TechHelp2 (5/5/2010 3:26 PM)
Thanks for the information, really appreciated. To be honest, I wasn't expecting an answer
To answer your question, I did connect correctly on the source (battery ok) and I did get the red on the negative and then the black on the positive, there was some sparks but I could figure out why. I did this like 23492349234 times this winter and now that everything is perfectly fine (not freezing to death) I mix them up.
Anyhow, I kind of believe it's a ground somewhere. I could tell it has to do with the fact that there is a component related with the key being at accessories/contact.
I do have a friend that I knows much more on this than I do. He has a multi-meter and might be able to help me out.
At 5bucks / fuse, I don't like seeing them dying in a second.
I do have a common sense, but I'm no mechanic.
If you have any tips, I'll take them.
Last edited by argh226 (5/5/2010 4:50 PM)
You can go to the auto parts store and get a 10 amp circuit breaker and put in where the fuse goes. This acts as the short checker I mentioned before. It saves a lot of money on fuses.
Don't leave it in permanently. This is just for diagnostics.
Let me know how you make out.
Is it a problem if the fuse is a 20amp and the checker a 10 amp?
As for now I'm going to start with any grounded cables that could cause that. Right before I started to try to boost it, everything was just fine.
Even the booster cable was getting hot, I could easily figure out a burned out cable somewhere.
The problem here is not the cable itself, but the "somewhere".
I think this fuse checker is a great tool to have in hand even if I find the cable.
Using a 10 amp circuit breaker is the safest way to go.
Even though the fuse is 20 amp, it will continue to break the circuit without overheating the wires until the problem is found.
With the circuit breaker in place start moving or wiggling all the wire harnesses, if you are near the problem then the circuit breaker will stop popping until the wires are grounded again. If you don't see any obvious burn marks or bare wires start removing components one at a time until you find the problem area.
I don't know if its luck or anything, but with the help of my friend we were able to "fix it".
I did re-use the dead 20amp (the one I bought) and changed most relay on it. I had another PCM from the inside with "spare" relay.
That done, I was able to get power from accessories, then lights from contact and then tried up the start. I heard the typical click-click-click-click from the starter when the battery is low.
I did boost again from my other car, properly this time, and did start the car.
What I did with my fuse was to get the 2 wires together, no more no less. I'll probably have to get another one just in case though.
I don't quite understand what you did but I'm glad it worked for you.
If we can be of any help in the future just let us know.
Everything appears to be good. so far.
However there could be few other things that might need to be looked at.
Should I start a new topic? Its related to the idle speed while breaking (at a stop for example) and the motor is idling so low that it stops.
In the future you should always start a new topic when the question is not related to the original topic.
One of the main problems linked to stalling is that the throttle plate and idle air control motor cake up with carbon. Opening the throttle plate and spraying it with carburetor cleaner and cleaning it with a rag should get the carbon out.
The idle air control motor should be removed, and make sure the ports are not clogged with carbon. Driving the car over 45 MPH should reset the idle air control motor to the proper position.
This is just a start it could get more involved as you go.
Keep us informed on your progress.
Last edited by TechHelp2 (5/8/2010 3:53 AM)