After cranking the car over for maybe 10 second intervals, I pulled the plugs. Looking down at the engine from in front of the vehicle the plug furthest left, was wet with gas. The other three seemed dry. Before when they all seemed wet, I was doing much more cranking. Should they all have been noticeably wet with gas?
How do I disable the ignition when checking the throttle body?
Thanks for your help, I'm going to make some calls tomorrow and see how much some diagnostic time will cost.
At this point I think what happened is this: The inset screw on the rotor fell out, causing the car to die. I towed it home, put in gas and cranked the shit out of it those first couple weeks hoping it would start. While cranking the piss out of it I ruined my solder joint on my relay (this is a common problem with these cars) My car was flashing a code 16. I re-soldered the relay connected the wire harness back up and no longer get a code 16. Also I get the 3 clicks while turning the ignition. I'm thinking that while I was trying to start it, not knowing the rotor wasn't screwed down, I messed something up. I thought for sure the rotor would solve the problem.
Since I'm getting spark at my plugs, does this eliminate anything wrong involving the distributor, coil, igniter, rotor, and cap? (It sure was odd that I had to sand down inside the distributor cap, where a white ashy layer had developed on the part that inserts into the coil. Also sanded my rotor where it had turned black. I sanded it back down to look like copper again. Also, got some sand paper inside the coil hole, it was white ashy in there as well. (these parts had maybe 200 miles on them. I'm assuming the "burnt" black corrosion on my rotor, and white ashy stuff on my cap spring was from the excessive cranking during those first two weeks...does this make sense to you?
Also, could a missing ground wire be a possibility? It seems there's just one going from the battery to the bracket for my clutch adjustment thing which is attached to the engine.
I better change my fuel filter, it's only 10 bucks or so. What are the chances the filter is preventing start up?
And another thing, do you know if there's anyway to test the relay I re-soldered, with an ohmmeter? It'd be nice to know for sure. Also, I never did re-secure the relay up under the dash, it's just hanging there connected, this doesn't affect anything does it?
Thanks. I'm hopeful a solution will come soon. It's the not knowing part that's eating me up. If there's any other tests I can do with my ohmmeter, please let me know. I'm trying to get my money's worth out of it.
Going by the history of this distributor, even with good spark, it could still be messed up causing improper ignition timing. It could be as simple as the base timing being incorrect when the distributor was installed.
You can disable the ignition by unplugging all connectors to the distributor.
If you're talking about the starter relay, and the starter is cranking, that's not the problem.
Get a technician to look at it. There have been too many variables for me to evaluate the problem accurately without being hands-on. It may be something simple you're missing that could be figured out quickly by a tech with the proper tools.