Mitsubishi Eclipse:

Overheating when under load or high rpm's

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#1 10/1/2011 10:38 AM

57lair
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Registered: 10/1/2011
Posts: 6

Overheating when under load or high rpm's

Temp goes up to around 95C when going up hills under load.  Also, if I am in N (manual trans) and hold the rpm's around 3000 the temp will go up to red. It will idle without any temp problems. The coolant is full and I have replaced the thermostat.

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#2 10/1/2011 11:05 AM

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Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

Be sure the coolant fan(s) are working properly and there is nothing obstructing air flow through the grill, condenser or radiator -- look closely between the condenser and radiator for leaves, paper, or whatever.

Next I'd confirm there is no air in the coolant system by using the correct bleeding (burping) procedure. The system may appear full but still have pockets of air trapped inside.

When air pockets appear in a coolant system, and there are no external leaks, a leaking head gasket is usually the culprit.

Gonna need model year, engine, etc. to pull up any additional information. Or you can subscribe to ALLDATAdiy.com and get all the procedures and technical service bulletins yourself.


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#3 10/1/2011 12:02 PM

57lair
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Registered: 10/1/2011
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Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

2002 Eclipse  4 cyl. non turbo. 

Both fans are working properly.  Checked for obstructions, non noted.

Haven't seen any bubbles in coolant

I did replace the upper radiator hose and then later the thermostat.

Possible there is an air pocket...

What is the procedure for burping the cooling system?

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#4 10/2/2011 9:09 AM

TechHelp2
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Registered: 11/23/2009
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Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

The easiest way to bleed (burp) an engine is to get the radiator higher than the engine.

To do this put the car on ramps or jack stands and take the radiator cap off when the engine is cold.

Start the engine and run it at idle, watch the coolant level in the radiator, fill it as needed. Wait for the thermostat to open a few times, keep watching the radiator coolant level and fill it as needed, this should get the trapped air out.

In most cars these days the engine sits a little lower than the radiator and it is difficult to remove all the trapped air. Unless you raise the front of the car making the radiator higher than the engine not all the air can escape.


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#5 10/12/2011 8:20 PM

57lair
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Registered: 10/1/2011
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Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

TechHelp2 wrote:

The easiest way to bleed (burp) an engine is to get the radiator higher than the engine.

To do this put the car on ramps or jack stands and take the radiator cap off when the engine is cold.

Start the engine and run it at idle, watch the coolant level in the radiator, fill it as needed. Wait for the thermostat to open a few times, keep watching the radiator coolant level and fill it as needed, this should get the trapped air out.

In most cars these days the engine sits a little lower than the radiator and it is difficult to remove all the trapped air. Unless you raise the front of the car making the radiator higher than the engine not all the air can escape.

Tried all the above and still no luck.  One thing I have noticed is that since this all began the heater isn't putting out any heat.?????

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#6 10/12/2011 8:34 PM

TechHelp2
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Registered: 11/23/2009
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Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

No water to the heater means one of two things. First it could be a clog in the hose coming from the engine or there is still air in the system.

You need to keep bleeding (burping) the cooling system until you start getting coolant going through the heater core.

Try jacking up the car one side at a time and try to remove the heater hose form the engine to try to move the air pocket so it can escape. Do this without the engine running. Then try to bleed the system again with the engine running with the car on stands or ramps.

If you can't get the air out then there is a special tool that is used to help bleed (burp) a cooling system.

Unfortunately you will need to find a shop that has the tool.

If you can't get the air out then you should have the head gasket(s) checked out to be sure they are not allowing air into the system.

If you can let us know how you make out.


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#7 3/22/2012 10:05 PM

57lair
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Registered: 10/1/2011
Posts: 6

Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

TechHelp2 wrote:

No water to the heater means one of two things. First it could be a clog in the hose coming from the engine or there is still air in the system.

You need to keep bleeding (burping) the cooling system until you start getting coolant going through the heater core.

Try jacking up the car one side at a time and try to remove the heater hose form the engine to try to move the air pocket so it can escape. Do this without the engine running. Then try to bleed the system again with the engine running with the car on stands or ramps.

If you can't get the air out then there is a special tool that is used to help bleed (burp) a cooling system.

Unfortunately you will need to find a shop that has the tool.

If you can't get the air out then you should have the head gasket(s) checked out to be sure they are not allowing air into the system.

If you can let us know how you make out.

Haven't forgotten you guys.  Still working on the problem.  Last week the radiator split and had to replace it.  Have noticed that the upper hose is hotter than the lower hose.?????2002 eclispe gs 4L

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#8 3/23/2012 10:41 AM

TechHelp2
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Registered: 11/23/2009
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Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

The upper hose comes from the engine and is usually mounted on or near the thermostat. When the thermostat opens it allows the hot coolant from the engine to enter the radiator, as the coolant cools going through the radiator it reaches the lower hose where the cooler coolant can enter the engine.

This explains the temperature difference of the two hoses.

If you need more information just let us know we will be glad to help.


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#9 3/23/2012 11:05 AM

57lair
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Registered: 10/1/2011
Posts: 6

Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

TechHelp2 wrote:

The upper hose comes from the engine and is usually mounted on or near the thermostat. When the thermostat opens it allows the hot coolant from the engine to enter the radiator, as the coolant cools going through the radiator it reaches the lower hose where the cooler coolant can enter the engine.

This explains the temperature difference of the two hoses.

If you need more information just let us know we will be glad to help.

On the Eclipse, the lower hose goes to the thermostat (Typo above, engine is a 2.4L non-turbo) and little to no heat coming out heater vents.

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#10 3/23/2012 10:36 PM

TechHelp2
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Registered: 11/23/2009
Posts: 1039

Re: Overheating when under load or high rpm's

You never said why you changed the thermostat in the first place.

I know this may sound stupid but is it possible the thermostat is installed improperly?

There is a jiggle valve on the thermostat that needs to be installed on top. I have given you a picture of this from the Alldata information web site below.

The jiggle valve helps remove air in the system. Removing the thermostat to inspect the installation might be helpful.

Just a thought, I'm not judging your mechanical skills but we all can make mistakes once in a while.

Let us know when you can.


http://www.realworldautomotive.com/forums/uploads/thumbs/174_850036931.gif

Install the thermostat so that the jiggle valve is facing straight up. Be careful not to fold or scratch the rubber ring.


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