Ford Contour:

1996 Ford Contour cranks but won't start

It's a 2.5-liter V6, and there should be a 4-wire connector at the coil pack.

With the ignition on, the purple/black wire terminal receives 12 volts from the 20 amp (Ignition DRL) fuse located in engine compartment fuse box. That fuse receives voltage from the Ignition Relay located in the interior fuse panel.

The ignition relay is activated by voltage from the ignition switch. Once activated, the relay sends voltage from the 80 amp main fuse to the Ignition DRL fuse.

Did you get all that? Voltage path: 80 amp main fuse >> Ignition relay >> Ignition DRL fuse >> coil pack. Remember, the ignition must be on when testing.

You said it "does not appear to have spark", but you want to be sure before going any further.

Also, when there is no spark, a good next-step is checking for injector pulse. That's the on/off ground signal coming from the Powertrain Control Module to each injector. No injector pulse would indicate a problem with a main trigger to the whole system -- like the crankshaft sensor or even the PCM itself. Also might want to check if the tachometer (if equipped) is showing a signal while cranking

Injector pulse, but no spark (on any cylinders), would take us to the voltage check described above.

Hey blue32falcon: 

If you read the last post thoroughly, you should see that there's more to it than just replacing the crank sensor.

Like I said, a good place to start is confirming a loss of both spark and injector pulse. Missing both directs us to testing the crank sensor, Powertrain Control Module, and all involved circuits.

Pulse, but no spark, would suggest testing the PCM, coil pack and all related circuits there.

If you have a test light and some DC knowledge, give it a shot. But remember that we rarely suggest replacing any parts before accurately diagnosing the failure.

I had just finish testing for spark and "BAM!!" there's spark, very strong blue white spark.  Is this the indication that the PCM is not sending power to the injectors to open up?  Theres quarter tank left and no fuel light.  When I turn the key to on (not crank) I can hear the pump turn on then off, this whole process takes place within 1.5 second, I assume this is normal.  Also there is a check valve I think its for the fuel line right behind the camshaft pulley, when I press on it there was no fuel or fuel being spraying out (no pressure).  Was this line suppose to be pressurize all the time?  My next step will be taking the intake manifold apart so I can access the injectors for testing.  Thanks...

Sorry took so long but fortunately its fixed, long story short.  Like I mentioned before that there was a spark a strong one at that moment I kinda sorta tested if there was any fuel pressure by depressing the valve that is on the fuel line, and there was no squirt nothing at all.  On that line I know there should be some type of pressure on it.  Last year I was gone overseas and the car was sitting for more than 11 months, upon returning my wife started and notice fuel gauge sitting below empty so she empty 2gallon of mix oil and gasoline in the tank.  So she start it and let it run for while until I get back.  I didn't get that story not until later.  The fix.  I change the fuel filter (clogged really bad) and put 5 gallon of good fuel in the tank then I drove it to the gas station top it off after I added fuel condition and fuel system cleaner solution in the tank.  Thanks for the help.